Sunday, March 1, 2009

Tables for Two




Olive Garden Italian Restaurant ($$)

2 Times Square. Upon entering the Olive Garden Italian Restaurant in Times Square, one immediately is assaulted by layer upon layer of olfactory and aural stimulation. The scent of melting parmesan is not confined to the restaurant itself, but indeed hovers several blocks away from the neon-lit, can't-miss-it establishment. A dour hostess greets visitors with a strident bark, "Hour and fifteen wait. Hour and twenty wait." Such discouraging news daunts few, probably because elaborate specialty cocktails prove a most pleasant distraction while waiting to be seated. The Limoncello Lemonade comes especially recommended: this granita-like beverage tastes tart but not too acidic, and the sugared rim is thoughtful touch.

Cheese lovers will rejoice at the Olive Garden's menu. Salad, appetizer, and entrée alike all allow the chef to showcase his extensive talent for incorporating dairy elements into each offering. While the cheese is as tasty as it is plentiful, the bill of fare might disappoint connoisseurs, as the cheese options seem confined to the un-specified "four cheeses" that appear in nearly every menu item.

If parmesan and mozzarella do nothing for you, never fear. One also might feast on a tasty-looking chicken marsala, which is available stuffed (albeit presumably with more cheese) or unstuffed. An asparagus and shrimp risotto dish presents a lighter option for the health-conscious, if one manages to avoid the pats of butter that coagulate cunningly around its rice grains.

The wait-staff is enthusiastic, accommodating, and anticipates customers' needs intuitively. Novelty-sized bottles of red and white house wine come with the helpful recommendation, "It's not that expensive." The Manhattan suburbs have decided collectively (and accurately) that the Olive Garden is the perfect birthday party locale, and waiters summon mostly-believable gusto in fĂȘting celebratees with songs and hand-claps. Bloated birthday party attendees are presented with a slice of cake to top off a thoroughly enjoyable meal. What kind of cake, you inquire? Well cheesecake, naturally.

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